Ruth
To detach from the relentless buzz of daily life, we planned a trip to the Amazon jungle in Brazil. For three nights and four days, we experienced adventure that offered a much-needed break from digital distractions and over-packed schedules.
Day 1
We flew to Sau Paulos, then to Manaus, the gateway to the Amazon rainforest. This city sits at the confluence of the Rio Negro and the Solimões River (the Amazon River). Together with another couple from Australia, we boarded a small boat with a captain, our guide Nause, a female chef and a deckhand. The living conditions were quite primitive. Going to the bathroom was no longer a mindless task, but a moment that demanded planning. Similarly, taking a shower with black water pumped directly from Rio Negro became a challenge.
After a simple lunch, the boat brought us to the place where the Rio Negro and the Solimões River meet. But they don’t merge. It was a unique sight to behold. Then we did a nature walk with Nause and a speedboat ride through the narrow waterways.
Evening came. Nause took us to look for alligators. With his bare hand, he grabbed a small one out of the water and showed us its sharp teeth.
When all became quiet, it was time for bed. The captain turned on the generator for three hours so that we could use the air conditioning in our small cabin. Yet it was so hot that my husband decided to sleep in a hammock on the deck. He claimed it was more comfortable than the bed.
Day 2
In the morning, we visited the Rubber Museum, a replica of the original building located in Cupuaçu, which was built years ago as a movie set. It offers a fascinating glimpse into the history and impact of the rubber industry. The museum showcases the arduous process of rubber tapping, with exhibits that include tools used by tappers, photographs documenting the industry’s past, and detailed displays about life and work on rubber plantations. The museum also addresses the socio-economic effects on indigenous and local communities. Additionally, it demonstrates the complex process of turning the mandioca (yuca) root into food through harvesting, peeling, grinding, pressing, drying, and roasting. We learned yesterday that Nause and his colleagues loved it. I tried it and decided it must be an acquired taste, as I didn’t like it at all.
We were surprised to find many beaches along the Rio Negro. After lunch, the boat took us to a popular site for a dip in the water, followed by the highlight of our trip—swimming with the pink dolphin.
The Amazon pink dolphins are magnificent creatures. Known for their distinct pink hue, which intensifies with age, these dolphins are a marvel of the Amazon ecosystem. They are larger than I’ve expected, boasting a long, slender beak and a rounded forehead. Their flexible necks allow them to nod in a friendly manner.
A worker at the site lured them in with fresh fish. As we swam, they approached us with gentle curiosity, revealing their dorsal fins and splash of pink against the black water. Their presence reminded me of the rich biodiversity of the Amazon, and swimming alongside them was a truly magical experience.
The site also offered an opportunity to fish for pirarucu, often referred to as the “giant of the Amazon.” This remarkable fish, native to the Amazon Basin, can grow up to ten feet in length and weigh over 400 pounds, making it one of the largest freshwater fish in the world.
The pirarucu has a unique ability to breathe air due to a specialized swim bladder, allowing it to thrive in oxygen-depleted waters. Its massive scales are renowned for its striking, iridescent red and green coloration and often made into crafts by the indigenous people.
Casting my line (with a fish and no hook) into the water, I felt a sudden, powerful tug. The fish was astonishingly strong, and for a moment, I struggled to keep my grip on the fishing rod. The experience offered a thrilling insight into the wild, untamed beauty of the Amazon.
(Please come back next week for Part 2)