by Ruth
（Continue from last week）
Day 3
We went on the speedboat at 5:30 a.m. In darkness, Nause urged us to use our ears. I tuned in to the rustle of leaves, the distant calls of animals and birds, and the gentle hum of insects. Without the perpetual noise of civilization, I found solace, allowing myself to relax.
The Rio Negro, known for its darkly stained waters and acidity that wards off mosquitoes, supports biodiversity. In addition to the pink dolphin and various species of fish, we also saw sloths and monkeys.
To our surprise, we saw abandoned man-made structures dotting around. Nause explained they were from the defunct Amazon jungle lodge. These structures were remnants of an ambitious project that attracted super-wealthy tourists to immerse in the heart of the Amazon. Over time, challenges such as isolation, difficult logistics, and the concerns about the fragile ecosystem led to its closure. Today, the lodge stands in quiet testimony to the once-thriving vision of tourism and is slowly being reclaimed by the jungle.
In the afternoon, our guide took us to finish for piranhas. We made our way to a quiet bend in the river. Nause handed us simple fishing rods fashioned from sturdy branches, each equipped with a line and a chunk of raw meat as bait. He beat the water with the rod vigorously. Soon, he pulled up a formidable fish with sharp teeth.
Afterward, a native came to take us to jungle tracking. He pointed out bullet ants and the ritual involving them. The ritual, known as the Bullet Ant Initiation, is a coming-of-age ceremony practiced by the indigenous Sateré-Mawé people of the Amazon. In this intense rite of passage, young boys transition into adulthood by wearing gloves filled with live bullet ants. These ants are known for having one of the most painful stings in the insect world. Participants must endure the pain. This experience is not only a test of physical endurance but also a demonstration of bravery, spiritual strength, and commitment to their community. The ritual is deeply respected and serves as a symbol of personal growth and transformation.
Nause also pointed out the curare plant. Curare is known for its potent muscle-relaxant properties, traditionally used as a toxin on the tips of arrows and blowgun darts by indigenous tribes in the Amazon. The active compounds in curare, primarily alkaloids like tubocurarine, work by blocking the transmission of nerve impulses to the muscles, causing paralysis. In a medical setting, these properties have been harnessed for use as a muscle relaxant during surgeries, assisting with intubation and other procedures requiring muscle relaxation.
During the excursions, we learned to trust our guides and not to count on ourselves. The jungle teaches patience, adaptability, and respect—qualities fostered by our guides who understand both the dangers and wonders of this environment.
Day 4
The last day of our trip. In the morning, we visited Tatuyo, an indigenous community renowned for its vibrant cultural heritage. The Tatuyo people welcomed us with open arms, sharing their rich traditions through performances and intricate crafts that tell the stories of their ancestors and celebrate the natural world. Dancers adorned in vivid, hand-crafted costumes moved in harmony with the rhythmic beats of drums. Afterwards, we admired exquisite carving and weaving, each piece reflecting the flora and fauna of the Amazon and the deep connection between the Tatuyo and their environment. To help them, each of us bought some handcrafts.
For lunch, the chef grilled a whole tambaqui fish for us. The tambaqui is native to freshwater habitats in the Amazon Basin. Its meat is known for its fatty flavor with a buttery texture. This particular preparation was seasoned simply with coarse salt and lime, allowing the natural flavors of the fish to shine.
The boat sailed back to Manaus. Time to say goodbye. Yet, the serenity and lessons of the Amazon remained with me. The jungle has given me a chance to reconnect with nature and allow me to simply be—without the distractions of my cell phone, tablet, and other modern conveniences.
